Istanbul sites and activities

You can easily spend a week or more as a tourist in Istanbul with all the fabulous things there are to see and do.  This page discusses the major Istanbul sites and also highlights some popular activities.  The good news is that many of the historic sites are clustered together which makes visiting several of the big guys in one day very feasible.  If you plan to visit multiple museums you may want to investigate purchasing the Istanbul museum pass.

Where hours of admission are described below, summer season is defined as April through October and winter season is November through March.  Admission prices are the same year-round but most museums close earlier in the winter season.

Sites on the Historic Peninsula

Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia)

Aya Sofya is one of the most-visited sites in Istanbul and should be one of your first stops.  It is a 6th century Byzantine church that was converted into a mosque after the Ottomans conquered Istanbul, and is now a museum.  You will see a mix of Aya Sofya’s Christian and Muslim history throughout the building.  When you visit, make sure you check out the second level.  Signs will lead you to a winding ramp off in the corner that will take you upstairs (wear good shoes – its paved with uneven stones).  You will find impressive, gilded mosaics on the second floor.  It also offers impressive views from the balcony down over the main sanctuary.   Peek out the windows on the southwest side of the second story for nice views of the Blue Mosque.

• Location: Aya Sofya is across the park from the Blue Mosque and adjacent to the entrance to Topkapı Palace.  Closest tram stop is Sultanahmet.
• Visitor info: Open daily from 9am – 7pm in the summer.  Closes at 5pm in the winter.  Entrance fee is 40TL; Istanbul museum pass is accepted here.
• Other notes: The lines to buy tickets at Aya Sofya can get pretty long.  Your best bet is to get there right when it opens.  Buying a museum pass will help you skip the line, as will hiring a guide.

The Blue Mosque 

Called the Sultan Ahmet Mosque in Turkish for the sultan who commissioned it (the neighborhood around here gets its name from the mosque), this 17th century mosque’s English name comes from the impressive, blue Iznik tiles covering its interior. The mosque is particularly distinctive because it has 6 minarets – one of only a few mosques in Turkey that does.  It doesn’t take long to visit the interior of the mosque, but its worth your time for the decoration and tiles inside.

• Location: Located near the Sultanahment tram stop and across the park from Aya Sofya.  Adjacent to the Hippodrome.
• Visitor info: This is an active mosque which means entrance is free and you can visit anytime except during prayer times.  See General tips for more info about visiting mosques.
• Notes: Because the Blue Mosque is one of the primary sites in Istanbul the line to visit the mosque can get pretty long.  I recommend going in the morning before the mid-day prayer time to beat the lines.

Topkapı Palace

Topkapı is the old palace of the Ottoman sultans and one of my favorite places to visit in Istanbul.  The palace contains four consecutive courts and an adjacent harem.  The first court is open to the public; its where you will find the ticket booth and the museum shop.  The museum begins in the second court where you can enter the harem and tour the palace kitchens.  I strongly recommend buying the additional admission ticket to visit the harem.  The harem shows you the private apartments of the sultan and his family; you will find beautiful Iznik tiles throughout the rooms.  Highlights from the third court are the treasury and the sacred relics sections.  The Treasury showcases jewels from the Ottoman sultans, including the famous Topkapı dagger (subject of the 1964 Hollywood movie Topkapı).  The sacred relics section contains many Old Testament religious relics.  You are able to enjoy good views of the Bosphorus and Istanbul from the fourth court at the back of the palace.

There is a famous restaurant inside Topkapı called Konyalı – it has good food but even better views.  My advice, however, is to skip the main restaurant (its quite pricey), and visit the attached cafe instead.  It’s a good spot to rest for a bit, has great views, and is much cheaper.

I also recommend visiting the Museum Shop (muze shop) just outside the main entrance to Topkapı.  Most museums in Turkey now have one of these attached souvenir shops. These shops are a little pricier than what you might find if you bargained on the street, but they aren’t too expensive and the goods are high-quality and often unique.  The one at Topkapı is the best in the country – I always enjoy browsing there.

• Location: You can enter the grounds of Topkapı behind Aya Sofya or via Gülhane park by walking adjacent to the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.  The closest tram stop is Gülhane.
• Visitor info: Open from 9am-7pm in the summer. Closes at 5pm in the winter.  Closed on Tuesdays.  Admission to the main museum is 40TL, ticket for the harem is an extra 25TL.  The Istanbul museum pass works for both.

Istanbul Archaeology Museum

The Istanbul Archaeology Museum consists of three buildings: the main archaeology museum, the Tile Kiosk and the Museum of the Ancient Orient.  If you are interested in ancient history and archaeology then you will love this museum.  Its full of old sarcophaguses, statues, and other artifacts from Greek, Roman, Hittite and other ancient civilizations.  It also has a great collection of artifacts uncovered in Istanbul, including the serpent heads that used to be atop the column in the Hippodrome.

 

• Location: Adjacent to Gülhane park and next door to Topkapı palace.  The closest tram stop is Gülhane.
• Visitor info: Open from 9am-7pm in the summer. Closes at 5pm in the winter.  Closed on Mondays.  Admission to the museum is 20TL; Istanbul museum pass is accepted.

Hippodrome

The Hippodrome was a massive arena during Byzantine times.  All that remains today is a wide open space and a few columns that used to be in the center of the arena.  One is an obelisk taken from Egypt that is in excellent condition.  As it is an open public space, the Hippodrome is open all hours and has no entry fee.  The Hippodrome is directly adjacent to the Blue Mosque – you are likely to pass through it when you exit the mosque if you are walking towards the tramway.

Basilica Cistern

Called Yerebatan Sarayı in Turkish, this site is an underground cistern where water was stored during Byzantine times.  The cistern was hidden for most of the Ottoman era.  It is unlike anything I have seen anywhere else in the world and has a slightly creepy quality to it.  There is still water at the base of the cavernous room, the ceiling of which is supported by hundreds of Corinthian columns.  There are wooden pathways that allow you to explore the structure, but walk carefully, the floor is sometimes wet.  Follow signs to visit the medusa-headed columns at the back.  No one has discovered why these two random columns have Medusa heads on them, but they are certainly interesting.

• Location: Just across the tramway street from Aya Sofya.  Closest tram stop is Sultanahmet.
• Visitor info: Open daily from 9am-6:30pm.   Admission price is 20TL; the museum pass does not work here.

The Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı)

Even if you aren’t looking to buy anything, exploring the Grand Bazaar is a not-to-be-missed experience.  First constructed in the 15th century, the bazaar was the main hub of commerce in Istanbul throughout Ottoman times.  Walking through its historic streets will give you a sense of how business in Istanbul has been conducted for centuries.  Although many shops in the bazaar are targeted towards tourists (how many pashminas can one market hold?) there are also plenty of traditional craftsmen who are practicing trades that have been handed down from masters to apprentices for centuries.

I recommend strolling into the market without any particular agenda and getting lost.  Wander through random doorways, investigate side streets, chat with friendly shop-keepers, and when you are tired of walking, stop for refreshment in one of the many cafes sprinkled throughout. There are plenty of goods for sale in the Grand Bazaar – rugs, jewelry, leather, ceramics, copper, and yes, even pashminas.  The road that runs along the south end of the Grand Bazaar (Kalpakçilar street) is filled almost entirely with gold shops.  This is a surprisingly good place to buy gold because the price is based solely on the weight of the piece and the market price (which you will see listed on electronic screens in the shops).  Even if you don’t want to buy gold, Kalpakçilar street is a great place to do some window shopping!

If something pretty strikes your eye while you are strolling around, make sure you bargain heavily before making a purchase.  The first price is never the final price in the Grand Bazaar.  Bargain until you get to a price you are comfortable paying – if you can’t agree to a price then you can always try again at a different shop.  Shopkeepers will call out to you and try to solicit your business as you walk by.  Just smile and keep walking if you aren’t interested.

• Location: Can be reached via the Çemberlitaş or Beyazit tram stops.  A 15 minute walk from the Blue Mosque down Divan Yolu street.  The bazaar has several entrances; the Nuruosmaniye gate is closest to Sultanahmet and near the Çemberlitaş tram stop.
• Visitor info: Open from 9am-7pm year round.  Closed on Sundays.
• Note: There is an excellent guidebook called Istanbul’s Bazaar Quarter by Edda Renker Weissenbacher and Ann Marie Mershon that describes some fabulous walking tours in and around the Grand Bazaar.  It helps you find hidden treasures within the Grand Bazaar and navigate the back-streets in the bazaar district.  I recommend it if you want to really dig deep into this neighborhood.

The Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)

The Spice Bazaar is one of my favorite sites in Istanbul.  Like the Grand Bazaar, it is a covered market built by the Ottomans, but it is much smaller than the Grand Bazaar and mostly contains spices, teas and other food-related items.  What I love most about the Spice Bazaar is its smell.  The fragrant aroma of the spices hits you as soon as you walk inside and is an immediate affirmation that you are in the Middle East.  In addition to spices, you can buy many different types of Turkish delight here, as well as other sweets, nuts, dried fruit, tea, coffee, baklava, natural soaps, and souvenirs.  Shops will let you taste any of the food items before buying.  The most famous purveyor of Turkish coffee, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, has its headquarters just outside the southwest gate of the market (back and to the right – on Hasircilar street).  Buy some to take home with you or just walk by to smell the amazingness.  I also love to explore the streets directly behind and to the right (keep walking past Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi) of the Spice Bazaar.  These shops are not targeting tourists and sell all kinds of random goods.  A good walking plan is to continue down Hasircilar street until you come to the Rüştem Paşa Mosque – visit the mosque and then walk back to Eminönü along the Golden Horn.

• Location: Across the street from the Eminönü tram stop and the Galata Bridge.  Adjacent to Yeni Camii (the ironically-named New Mosque, built in 1665).
• Visitor info: Open daily.  8am-7:00pm on weekdays, 8am-7:30pm on Saturday and 9:30am-7pm on Sunday.
• Note: It is possible (and quite fascinating) to walk from the Grand Bazaar to the Spice Bazaar – the streets between are full of shops hawking all kinds of interesting goods.  Its very easy to get turned around, however, so either bring a great map or ask a local for directions.

Kariye Museum (Chora Church)

Kariye is further removed from the concentration of historic sites in Sultanahmet, but it is well worth the trek out to Edirnekapı to check it out.  Like Aya Sofya, Kariye is an old Byzantine church that became a mosque and is now a museum.  It is much smaller than Aya Sofya, but the mosaics and frescos adorning the walls are show-stoppers.  They were plastered over when Kariye became a mosque and then uncovered and restored after it was converted into a museum in the 1940s.  If you enjoyed the mosaics in Aya Sofya then Kariye will blow you away.

• Location: A little further afield and harder to reach – Kariye is out near the Istanbul city walls.  The easiest bet is to just take a taxi, which should only cost about $10 from Sultanahmet.  If you want to take public transport you can take a bus from Eminönü to Edirnekapı – the 31E, 37E, or 38E will get you there.  Visit the IETT website for bus routes and timetables.
• Visitor info: Open daily from 9am-7pm during the summer season. Closes at 5pm during the winter.  Admission is 30TL; museum pass is accepted here.
• Note: There is an excellent restaurant adjacent to Kariye called Asitane. This high-end establishment specializes in Ottoman cuisine and serves recipes taken from actual palace records.  It is a little pricey but the food is exceptional.

Great Palace Mosaic Museum

This small museum is a real hidden gem.  It showcases what was once a mosaic-adorned courtyard in the Great Palace of Constantinople – the Byzantine palace complex that stood where the Blue Mosque is today.  The 5th and 6th-century mosaics are stunning and depict scenes from everyday life – children riding a camel, a man milking a goat, a child tending geese, and all kinds of other fun nature scenes.  It is well worth a quick visit!

• Location: Entrance is inside the Arasta Bazaar (the shopping street on the east side of the Blue Mosque).
• Visitor info: Open daily from 9am-7pm during the summer season.  Closes at 5pm during the winter.  Admission is 15TL; museum pass is accepted here.

Other mosques around Sultanahmet

Most tourists come to Istanbul, visit the Blue Mosque, and then never set foot in a mosque again during their trip.  This is a travesty because there are so many stunning Ottoman mosques around the city that arguably have more impressive architecture and more ornate interiors than the Blue Mosque.  Ottoman mosques were grand projects, typically surrounded by large complexes of buildings.  They represent some of the highest architectural and artistic achievements reached during Ottoman times.  In other words – go explore a few while you are in Istanbul.  Plus, visiting mosques is always free!  Some of my favorites include:

• Süleymaniye Mosque is named after the sultan who commissioned it, Süleyman the Magnificent.  It is very visible in the city with its four staggered minarets and prominent location on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn.  Despite its massive size, it is bright and airy inside with a gilded dome and stained glass windows. It was designed by the most famous architect of the Ottoman era, Sinan, and is considered one of his greatest accomplishments.  Süleymaniye is walking distance from the Grand Bazaar, in the direction of the Golden Horn.
• Küçük Ayasofya (translates to little Aya Sofya) is an old Byzantine church that is as old as its namesake, and like the real Aya Sofya was converted into a mosque.  It is fascinating to visit this mosque after you have been to Aya Sofya to compare the architecture of the two buildings.  Küçük Ayasofya is just like the real thing, but on a much smaller scale.  The mosque can be reached by walking south from the Blue Mosque or the Arasta Bazaar (towards the Marmara sea).
• Rüştem Paşa Mosque is a smaller Sinan masterpiece whose interior is decorated entirely with Iznik tiles.  It is one of the most beautiful mosque interiors I have ever seen.  The mosque is located just down the Golden Horn from the Spice Bazaar and is pretty easy to find.

Sites in Beyoğlu / along the Bosphorus

Galata Tower 

This ancient Genoese tower is perched on a prominent hill, making it clearly visible in many parts of the old city.  The panoramic view from the top of the tower is not-to-be-missed.  (Don’t worry – there’s a modern elevator to take you up to the top).  Once you get to the top of the tower you will walk outside onto the observation platform which makes a circle around the entire tower.  Just a warning – its not a great spot to visit if you are afraid of heights.  Try to visit on a clear day since you are going up there for the stunning, unobstructed views.  There is a restaurant at the top of the tower that offers “Turkish shows” at night.  I have never attended one, but I bet the night views of Istanbul are pretty amazing.  The restaurant also serves lunch (without the show) during the day.  There are surprisingly lovely public restrooms at the top of the tower.

• Location: Galata tower sits on the hill overlooking Karaköy and the Galata Bridge.  Take the Tünel funicular from Karaköy or walk down Istiklal street and continue onto Galipdede street until you come to the tower.
• Visitor info: Open daily 9am-8:30pm.  Admission is 25TL.  Museum pass is not accepted.  

Taksim square and Istiklal street

Taksim itself is essentially a big transportation hub – the metro and funicular and many buses come through here.  Many of the big international hotel chains are concentrated in and around Taksim.  This was the site of the Gezi protests in 2013; you can see Gezi park just adjacent to the square.  If you aren’t staying at a hotel in the area you will likely come here in order to stroll down Istiklal street.  This is the main pedestrian thoroughfare in Istanbul (no cars are allowed although there is a historic tram).  Its full of restaurants, shops, and people – Istanbul denizens and tourists alike.  Visiting Istiklal street is a great way to feel the vibe of the city and is fun to experience day or night.

• The easiest way to reach Taksim from the Sultanahmet area is to take the tram to Kabataş and transfer to the funicular which takes you to the heart of Taksim square.  Another option is to take the historic Tünel funicular from the Karaköy tram stop, which will drop you off at the other end of Istiklal street.

Nişantaşi neighborhood 

This is a good place to visit to get a taste of “modern” Istanbul.  It is one of the more upscale shopping districts in the city.  You will find high-end international designer stores (Gucci, Prada, etc.), Turkish chains (including the Beymen department store and Pasabahçe – a great housewares store), an indoor mall, and fun cafes and restaurants.  Nişantaşi is a nice neighborhood to stroll around even if you are only window shopping.  It is walking distance from Taksim and can also be reached via the metro (Osmanbey is the closest stop, one stop past Taksim).  The two main parallel streets of Nişantaşi (where many of the shops and cafes are located) are Teşvikiye Caddesi and Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi.

Dolmabahçe Palace

The Ottoman sultans moved their residence from Topkapı to Dolmabahçe Palace in the 19th century.  The palace has a prime location, directly on the Bosphorus just south of Beşiktaş.  It is much more European in style than earlier Ottoman construction and is quite ornate inside.  Touring the interior you will see antique furniture, beautiful wood floors, crystal staircases and opulent chandeliers including one that weighs 4.5 tons.  The palace has two sections – the selamlik and the harem.  The selamlik is the ceremonial quarters where the sultan would receive visitors; the harem shows you the private apartments of the family.  You can only visit either section via a guided tour (no wandering about on your own) and it requires a separate ticket to visit each section.  I recommend visiting the selamlik – it is the much more ornate and impressive part of the palace (and takes you to the ceremonial hall with the 4.5 ton chandelier).  In my opinion, you can skip the harem; the harem at Topkapi is more interesting.  You are not allowed to take pictures inside the palace anymore although you can take pictures on the palace grounds.

• Location: On the Bosphorus, just north of the Kabataş tram stop and just south of Beşiktaş.  Take the tram to Kabataş (the final stop on the tram). 
• Visitor info: Open from 9am-4pm.  Museum is closed Monday.  The Selamlik tour is 60TL and the harem tour is 40TL; a ticket for both is 90TL.  The Istanbul museum pass is not accepted here.

Ortaköy neighborhood          

Ortaköy is an adorable, waterfront neighborhood nestled beneath the Bosphorus Bridge (the first bridge).  It is less of a tourist destination and more a place that Turks go to hang out, particularly on weekends.  It has a small dock where you can get on a public ferry or a private Bosphorus cruise (see more about those below).  The neighborhood is small and has lots of cute little shops and cafes.  There are many fun things to do in Ortaköy, including:

• Visit the recently restored Ortaköy mosque and admire its unique, baroque interior. 
• Sample kumpir – massive stuffed baked potatoes that are a popular Turkish treat.  There are about 30 toppings for your potato to choose from, including hot dogs, corn and pickles.  
• Grab brunch waterside at the House Cafe or get refreshments at any of the other cafes in the neighborhood.
• Come on the weekend and browse the cute flea market for jewelry and many other random goods.
• Visit the neighborhood’s interesting souvenir shops.  I have made some fun purchases at Sani Grand Bazaar in the past – check out their Ottoman themed textiles on the second floor.  
• Take pictures! Views of the Ortaköy mosque beneath the Bosphorus bridge are some of the most iconic scenes in Istanbul.  
• Party all night at the uber-trendy nightclubs just north of Ortaköy.  Go early and eat dinner at the club to avoid the sky-high cover.

Other Activities

Cruising on the Bosphorus

I highly recommend doing a cruise on the Bosphorus.  There are a few different options for doing this, using either public ferries or private tours:

• The typical touristy thing to do is to take a full-day Bosphorus tour that starts in Eminönü and goes all the way to Anadolu Kavaği, a small fishing village at the top of the Bosphorus, near the Black Sea.  If you have a full day to spare then I recommend doing this tour.  The ferry drops you off in Anadolu Kavaği and gives you about 2.5 hours there before it returns to Eminönü.  There are two great ways to spend your time in Anadolu Kavaği: 1) climb the hill to explore the old castle and take in fantastic views down the Bosphorus and out to the Black Sea and 2) eat lunch at one of the fish restaurants lining the harbor.  
  • The boat makes several stops along the way to Anadolu Kavaği.  At Kanlica, on the Asian side past the second bridge, some sellers will board the boat to sell the famous Kanlica yogurt.  They sell individual-sized cups and will add a little sugar to it to make it sweet.  Try some – trust me it is the best yogurt you will ever eat in your life.
  • The ferry leaves Eminönü daily at 10:35am and arrives at Anadolu Kavaği at 12:25pm.  The ferry then departs Anadolu Kavaği at 3:00pm to make the 90 minute journey back to Eminönü.
  • This tour is run by Şehir Hatları – the Istanbul public ferry operator.  It is called the uzun boğaz turu – the long Bosphorus tour.  A round trip ticket costs 25TL, but you get a discount with the Istanbul Museum Pass.  Buy tickets at the Eminönü ferry dock (right next to the tram stop).  Look for the Boğaz Iskelesi signs (Bosphorus Cruises pier).

• Şehir Hatları also operates a kısa boğaz turu – a short Bosphorus tour that leaves from Eminönü, travels up past the second bridge, turns around and comes back.  You can also catch this tour in Ortaköy.  Its a good option if you don’t want to spend the entire day on your Bosphorus cruise.  It departs at 2:30pm and lasts about two hours.  The cost is 12TL.
• You can also take a shorter trip on a private tour boat that leaves from the pier at Ortaköy.  That tour just makes a loop up past the second bridge, turns around and brings you back to Ortaköy.  You will see signs for it near the Ortaköy mosque. 

Touring the Bosphorus by land

Another great way to experience the neighborhoods along the Bosphorus is to take a bus from Taksim, Kabataş or Besiktaş up to Sarıyer, near the north end of the Bosphorus.  The road follows the coast of the Bosphorus the entire way and you really get a fabulous view throughout the ride.  You can just ride all the way up to Sarıyer and check out the Sadberk Hanim Museum or stop off at neighborhoods like Ortaköy and Bebek along the way.  One word of warning, however – that road can get incredibly crowded during weekends or rush hour.  It is the only road that goes along the Bosphorus so traffic can get pretty tied up.  I recommend doing this during the week outside of rush hour times.  

• Take the 42T bus from Taksim (technically goes to Bahçekoy a bit inland but get out before then), the 40 from Taksim to Rumelifeneri, the 40B from Beşiktaş to Sarıyer, or the 25E bus from Kabataş to Sarıyer.  Visit the IETT website for bus routes and timetables.

Visiting Jewish sites in Istanbul

Although Turkey is a predominately Muslim country, a Jewish population has had a presence in Turkey for over 500 years.  There are a few notable Jewish sites that it is possible to visit in Istanbul.  The Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews is a great place to start.  This museum in Karaköy is located in an old synagogue and celebrates the history of Jewish people in Turkey with stories, photographs, and artifacts.  The museum is closed on Saturdays and open 10am-4pm Monday through Thursday, 10am-1pm on Friday, and 10am-2pm on Sunday.  The museum is one block from the Karaköy tram stop.  

There are many operating synagogues in Istanbul.  The largest synagogue in Istanbul is the Neve Shalom Synagogue, built in the 1950s and located just a few blocks away from Galata tower.  Neve Shalom was tragically the site of terrorist attacks in 1986 and in 2003.  Another notable synagogue in Istanbul is the Ahrida Synagogue in Balat, which is over 500 years old. 

Security is tight around visiting Istanbul’s synagogues so you will need to do some advanced planning.  There are several tour companies that offer full and half-day tours of Jewish sites (visiting both synagogues and Jewish neighborhoods).  If you want to do it yourself you will need to coordinate your visit through the Turkish Jewish Community.  Their website has more information about how to schedule those visits. 

Turkish baths (Hamams)

Visiting a traditional Turkish bath (hamam) is a popular activity for visitors to Turkey.  I don’t have much first-hand experience with Istanbul hamams, but I have friends who have visited and had great experiences.  In a traditional hamam, men and women have separate sections (or the hamam is open to men and women at different times of day).  You get a locker where you can store your clothes and you change into a cloth peshtemal.  You can just enjoy the steam of the hamam, or you can pay to have an attendant scrub you down with a kese, a serious exfoliating brush, while you lie on a hot marble stone.  Most hamams also offer massages and other add-on spa services.  Check out my post on hamams for more detail about what to expect when you visit a hamam.  Popular historic hamams in Istanbul include Çemberlitaş Hamam (near the Grand Bazaar), Süleymaniye Hamam (a co-ed hamam near Süleymaniye mosque), the recently restored Hürrem Sultan Hamam (near Aya Sofya), and the Cağaloğlu Hamam (near Sultan Ahmet).