Istanbul has tons of eating options. Like any major city, some are outstanding and some are sub-par. If you are looking for good food, you generally want to avoid just walking into a restaurant in Sultanahmet. There are a handful of good spots in Sultanahmet, but many restaurants make up for their prime locations with mediocre food. This post includes restaurants in Istanbul that I have enjoyed in the past or have heard great things about from others. You should also ask the staff at your hotel for their personal recommendations.
Hacı Abdullah
This restaurant, located just off of Istiklal street, specializes in traditional Turkish and Ottoman cuisine. Its a large restaurant with an extensive menu, including options that will please vegetarians. This is a pretty touristy spot and is often recommended by hotels. I’ve been here several times and have had experiences ranging from amazing to just okay. I would recommend it as a good option if you are looking to sample a variety of traditional Turkish food.
The House Cafe
This Istanbul chain has several branches throughout the city including one in Nişantaşi and one right on the Bosphorus in Ortaköy. I have been to the Ortaköy branch several times and have loved everything I have tried there. Their menu serves international cuisine with a Turkish twist. They also have great brunch options.
Hanedan
Hanedan has a lovely location right next to the Beşiktaş pier with terraces overlooking the Bosphorus. Traditional restaurants in Istanbul either specialize in meat or fish: Hanedan’s approach to this problem is to serve a meat menu on one floor and a fish menu on another. You specify which floor you want when you make your reservation (and you should make a reservation). I have been to the meat section and thought the food and atmosphere were excellent.
Sur Balık
My brother and his family visited the Cihangir branch of this fish restaurant on a recent trip and had a great experience. The menu is primarily fish and seafood but has a wide variety of offerings and an extensive list of salads and vegetarian mezes as well. The restaurant has four branches in Istanbul, all of which have impressive water views. The Cihangir branch is only a ten minute walk from Taksim square. It is a nicer restaurant and has prices to match. You can make online reservations via their website.
Çiya Sofrası
Çiya Sofrası is frequently cited by numerous sources as one of the best restaurants in Istanbul, if not in all of Turkey. Head chef and founder Musa Dağdeviren was even featured in a recent episode of “Chef’s Table” on Netflix. I have never personally visited, but I’ve heard incredible things. Çiya is located in Kadıköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul. The easiest way to get there is via ferry; the restaurant is only a short walk from the Kadıköy ferry terminal. Ferries regularly run to Kadıköy from Beşiktaş, Karaköy, and Eminönü. The menu features traditional regional Turkish dishes, mostly from the chef’s home region in southeastern Turkey. I would recommend making a reservation as the place can get crowded.
Feriye
Feriye is a high-end restaurant with a killer view – it is housed in a former palace along the Bosphorus, just south of Ortaköy. This place is not cheap, but the opportunity to eat excellent Turkish food right next to the Bosphorus is a unique and fabulous experience. I recommend it for your splurge experience in Istanbul. Reservations required.
Asitane
Asitane is another splurge-worthy restaurant: not because of its view but because of its unique, delicious menu. The restaurant specializes in recreating Ottoman recipes that were served to the Sultan in the royal palaces. Extensive research goes into their menu, which changes seasonally. The food is out-of-this-world tasty. Asitane is located next to the Kariye Museum so coupling a visit to the museum with lunch here is a good plan. Make a reservation.
Nişantaşı Başköşe
This kebab restaurant in upscale Nişantaşı is not a typical tourist destination but instead is full of Turks looking for a great meal. It is on the more expensive end of the spectrum but you will get excellent food – appetizers, kebabs and desserts. You will need a reservation.
Hamdi
Hamdi is located close to the Spice Bazaar and has great views over the Golden Horn, the Galata Bridge and Eminönü. It has been in its location for years and is known for excellent kebabs. I have never been to Hamdi but I have heard great things and it is high on my list of places to go. Make a reservation to secure a table with a view.
Develi
Develi is another great kebab restaurant and Istanbul institution. Its original location in Samatya is not that close to main hotels (its a Maramara Sea neighborhood near the city walls). However, the restaurant also has other branches around Istanbul, including a more convenient Nişantaşi location.
Mado
Mado is Turkey’s ubiquitous ice cream shop and one of my favorite places to eat. The name Mado comes from Maraş dondurması (Maraş ice cream) – the distinctive type of ice cream that was invented in Maraş (in southeastern Turkey). Maraş ice cream is a little different in texture from what you find in the U.S. and is delicious. At any Mado you will encounter a myriad of ice cream flavors that you can eat in a cup or a cone. Most Mados are cafes with sit down service options as well. My favorite flavor combination is antep fıstıklı (pistachio) with kaymak (sweet cream).
Mado also has a full food menu with a wide variety of options. I highly recommend it for a casual breakfast, lunch, or dinner. There is a Mado right on Divan Yolu (the street that the tram runs along between the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar), one on Istiklal street, and one in Ortaköy. These days you can find a Mado in just about every Turkish city.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
This is one of the most famous baklava shops in Istanbul. The owners are part of the famous Güllü baklava family who brought their trade from Gaziantep to Istanbul. They sell many different types of baklava; you can eat in the cafe or take baklava to go. You can also buy packages of baklava to take back home with you.
Saray Muhallebicisi
Saray has branches throughout Istanbul and is known primarily as a dessert shop that specializes in puddings. They also sell real food and offer a variety of different desserts. Their real food is decent and is a good option for a quick, inexpensive bite. Their rice pudding (fırın sutlaç) is one of my favorite desserts in the world. Make sure you get it with a scoop of plain ice cream on top. They have branches on Istiklal street, in Nişantaşı, and in many of the Istanbul malls.