Ankara is the second largest city in Turkey with a population of nearly 5 million. Most Turkish travel websites and guidebooks do not devote nearly as much space to Ankara as I do here. Truthfully, it isn’t a tourist destination. It doesn’t have Istanbul’s beautiful Bosphorus or historic Ottoman landmarks, boasts none of the crazy geological formations of Cappadocia, and has no alluring coastline. It’s a land-locked city that has some ancient roots but mostly came into its prime after Atatürk moved the capital of the new Turkish Republic here in the 1920s, in a deliberate attempt to distance the new government from Istanbul and the legacy of the Ottoman Empire. It is the seat of government, a mostly modern city, and if tourists visit it is only to make a quick visit to the Museum of Anatolia Civilizations before heading off to Cappadocia. For me, however, Ankara is home. It is where my father spent most of his childhood and where my closest family in Turkey still resides. I don’t make a trip to Turkey without spending at least a few days in Ankara. For that reason I have a strong affinity for the city and lots of thoughts about the great things it has to offer. If you find yourself in Ankara for any reason, this guide will help you make the most of your time there (and perhaps help you come to love it the way that I do!).
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations (Anadolu Medeniyetleri Müzesi)
This museum is Ankara’s star tourist attraction. Housed in a 15th-century han, the museum displays artifacts and provides excellent education around the numerous ancient civilizations that once thrived in Anatolia. If you have any interest in ancient history this is the museum for you! The museum was recently redone and includes excellent signage and chronology that takes you through different periods of civilization. Highlights include artifacts and depictions from Çatalhöyük, one of the earliest cities ever settled, and Hittite-era artifacts including a statue which has a large replica in the Sihhiye neighborhood in Ankara. The museum also has an interesting section in the basement devoted to ancient artifacts discovered in Ankara. There is a good-sized museum shop located in an out-building here as well: a good spot to pick up some souvenirs!
Visitor info: Open daily from 8:30am to 7:00pm in the summer, closes at 5:15pm in the winter. Admission is 30TL. The museum pass is accepted here.
Ankara Castle (Ankara Kalesi)
The main gate to Ankara’s castle is just up the hill from the Museum of Anatolia Civilizations. This ancient castle was captured and rebuilt several times over the centuries and at some point was used by Romans, Byzantines, Selçuk Turks, and Ottoman Turks. Many residents still live inside the castle walls and until recently this was a poor neighborhood full of dilapidated houses. A redevelopment effort has started in the castle district in recent years, however, and many of the old buildings are getting a face-lift. On my most recent visit I was shocked by the number of Turkish tourists who were visiting. There are now nice tourist shops and restaurants inside the kale and there are also opportunities to climb up on the ramparts and get excellent views over the city. The castle area is an open neighborhood and it is free to explore and climb on the ramparts.
Erimtan Museum
Just outside the main kale gate is the newer Erimtan Museum, which displays the private collections of the Erimtan family. I was blown away not only by the museum’s collection but also by the manner in which the collection was displayed. The museum is set inside three historic buildings that were restored and combined to create one large space. The main collection is on the first two floors; the basement is home to a rotating exhibit. When we visited the special exhibit was from a contemporary photographer who had taken many photos of Ankara, distorted some of them and provided a scathing social commentary on the state of urban development in Turkey: it was fascinating.
The main museum has artifacts discovered in Turkey dating from ancient Roman, Greek, Byzantine and Ottoman times. The presentation of these artifacts and the historical context shared alongside them made this one of the most interesting museums I have ever visited. For example, there was a display of ancient Roman cookware alongside excerpts from a Roman cookbook. Ancient coins from various eras were displayed in illuminated, vertical Plexiglas cases that you could pull out to examine both sides of the coins. Quotes from Ovid about beauty were shared next to ancient tweezers, mirrors, and grooming tools. It was a highly enjoyable and educational experience which I highly recommend to anyone visiting Ankara! If you visit, make sure you check out the bathrooms in the basement. They are a bit space-age and were some of the nicest / most interesting bathrooms I have encountered anywhere! There is also a nice outdoor / indoor museum café here and a small (expensive) museum shop.
Visitor info: This is a private museum so a museum pass will not work here. Admission is 7TL. Open 10am-5pm daily, closed Mondays.
Rahmi Koç Muzesi
Just a few buildings away from Erimtan is the Rahmi Koç Museum, housed in a restored historic building. I have yet to visit this museum but my understanding is that it has a great display of industrial items. This is also a private museum which means a museum pass will not work here. Museum is open 10am-5pm Tuesday through Friday, 10am-7pm on weekends. Closed on Mondays. Admission is 8TL.
Saman Pazarı
The district that winds down the hill from the castle is known as Saman Pazarı (the straw market: presumably what they used to sell in this area). Most of the old houses along these streets have been tastefully restored and are home to unique and interesting tourist shops as well as traditional Turkish shops selling things like raw wool. The streets here are pretty steep so keep in mind that it is easier to walk down from the castle than it is to climb up towards the castle. In this district you will find carpets, textiles, wooden goods, pottery, copper, soap, and just about any other Turkish gift you can think of. This is the place to come to in Ankara for tourist shopping, and items are typically priced reasonably here. You can always do a bit of bargaining (especially if you are buying multiple pieces from the same shop) but this isn’t the Covered Bazaar: heavy bargaining is not necessary. I always manage to part with some of my Turkish lira when I spend time in this shopping area, and I have yet to regret any of my purchases!
Hamam Önü
This neighborhood is another old district of Ankara that has been significantly restored in the last ten years to bring back its original character and turn it into a destination for Turks looking to explore their city’s history. You will find shops, cafes and a nice green space. It is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon. Adjacent to Hamamönü is the Karacabey Hamamı, a restored 15th century hamam from which this district gets its name.
Gençlik Park
This large public park in the Ulus neighborhood has been around since the 1940s. It contains a pretty lake, an amusement park, green space, playgrounds, and cafes. The park was restored within recent years and has become a very nice place for a stroll or to just cool off by the lake or in the shade. I have many fond memories of visiting the amusement park as a child: it’s a good spot to bring kids.
The Roman Baths
The only major Roman ruins in Ankara, the Roman baths are encircled by modern-day Ankara. The entrance to the baths is off of Çankırı street, the main road north out of the city (that will take you to the airport), just north of Ulus square. The baths were built in the 3rd century A.D. under the reign of the Emperor Caracalla (who also built very famous baths in Rome). The complex is not huge but you get a good sense of the foundations and the sheer size of the old bath structure.
Visitor info: Open from 8:30am-7pm in the summer, closes at 5pm in the winter. Admission fee is 6TL. Museum pass is accepted here.
Anitkabir
Anitkabir draws many Turkish tourists, particularly on national holidays. It is the mausoleum and tomb of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the Republic of Turkey and its first president. Atatürk picked Turkey up from the ashes of World War I, extricated the country from international influence, instilled a democratic government, gave rights to women, developed a new alphabet, and built a modern, educated western-looking civilization. He is revered throughout the country: you will see his portrait hung on the wall in government buildings, shops, restaurants, and homes. As such, his place of burial is also an important site visited by school groups and Turks paying their respects. It is an impressive monument: a gold-colored columned structure, reminiscent of the Parthenon or the Lincoln memorial. It prominently rises from a vacant hill in Western Ankara and is surrounded by a large park. Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission is free.
Kizilay
Kizliay is the Taksim square of Ankara: the heart of the city. The biggest metro stop is at Kizilay and many buses and dolmuş converge here. You will find cheap eateries and shops of all stripes. Kizilay used to be a high-end neighborhood where you could find the fanciest Turkish shops like Vakko. Kizilay no longer has that high-end image (most of those shops moved out to the suburban malls), but it is still a bustling center of activity. These days it is popular with college students and the profusion of bars and cheap kebab shops will prove that! The district has some nice pedestrian-only streets like Yuksel street and Sakarya street that are good for strolling and people-watching.
Kuğulu Park
This park is a central landmark and symbol of Ankara. It name translates to “swan park,” which comes from a pond in the center of the park that is home to swans, geese, and ducks. The pond is flanked by trees and benches and a café in one corner that overlooks the lake. It is a small park surrounded by major streets but it is a pleasant, shady spot to drink a glass of tea and escape the bustle of the city for a moment. Tunali Hilmi street that abuts the park on it east side is a popular shopping district that houses many trendy shops. The Sheraton hotel is also across the street from the park.
Çankaya
The Çankaya neighborhood at the south end of the city is pretty residential and is where you will find many of the embassies. It is home to many pleasant parks and Atakule, the space needle that is a prominent fixture in Ankara’s skyline. Atakule is currently being restored (they are building a new mall at its base), but when it is back in business you will be able to take an elevator up to the top for some great views out over the city.
Mosques in Ankara
The most famous mosque in Ankara is Kocatepe Mosque, a modern mosque with four minarets constructed in the Ottoman style that opened in the 1980s. Kocatepe is perched on a hill in the middle of the city (its name translates to “big hill”) and is a prominent fixture in Ankara’s skyline. Its interior is beautiful with stained glass windows, painted designs in the Ottoman style, and a massive chandelier. Beneath Kocatepe is a Çağdaş: a large grocery store.
Ankara’s most historically important mosque is the Haci Bayram Mosque, located in the Ulus neighborhood. The mosque is named for the founder of the Bayrami Sufi order who was native to Ankara. It was built in the 15th century and also houses the tomb of Haci Bayram Veli. The mosque has a wood ceiling, stained glass windows and Kütahya tiles. Directly next to Haci Bayram are the ruins of the temple of Augustus, built by the Roman Emperor in the 1st Century B.C.
Ankara’s oldest mosque is the Aslanhane Mosque in the Saman Pazarı neighborhood. This mosque is one of the oldest in Turkey, built in 1290 during the reign of the Seljuk Turks. It boasts wooden columns and a wooden roof and recently went through a restoration.
Shopping malls
Like the rest of Turkey, Ankara has experienced a shopping mall construction boom in the last ten years. There are many high-quality, modern malls sprinkled throughout the city. (I recently heard a mind-blowing statistic that Ankara is now home to 249 malls!) You might visit a mall to shop for Turkish or international brands, take haven in an air-conditioned space on hot summer days, or relax in one of their ubiquitous cafes. (I’m convinced that Turks don’t actually shop in these malls – they just visit for the restaurants, cafes, and people-watching). Most new malls in Turkey also have a mega grocery store attached. Some of the most popular malls include Panora (south of the city), Armada (west on the Eskişehir road, accessible by metro), Anka Mall (north of the city, metro accessible), and the Kizilay mall (right in the center of the city).